I know I’ve said that Valpolicella and Soave in Northern Italy’s Veneto wine region are relatively unknown gems worthy of a visit.
But at least some people have heard of Valpolicella and Soave, which is one reason why we suggest that you visit them first.
There are even smaller great wine regions in the area that should not be overlooked. I’m so glad we discovered tiny Custoza, one of the best regions for white wine I’ve ever been to. It’s hard to find this wine outside of Italy. It’s one of the most enchanting wine regions you’ve never heard of.
Custoza is a rural hamlet about 30 minutes south of Verona, nestled near the southern tip of Lake Garda. The region is dotted with cornfields and cherry trees. Most of the wines are blends. As in Soave, the main grape is Gargenega, but there’s also Trebbianello, Cortese, and others, such as Riesling. There are only about 70 wineries in the region, many of them small producers.
The region is also where you’ll find Borghetto, a treasure of a medieval village on the Mincio River and the perfect stopover between winery visits.
Very few tour operators offer excursions to the area. We found one operated by Pagus Wine Tours. Our tour with Jay, which ended up being private, was great.
Why isn’t Custoza more well known? The wine is certainly of good quality. According to one local, most of the wineries are very small and don’t engage in marketing. However, Custoza’s younger generation of winemakers better understands the need to support the area and is putting more effort into promotion. The burgeoning interest by visitors to enjoy wine in such a rural setting and communing with nature is also increasing the area’s visibility.
Monte del Fra
The first winery we visited was Monte del Fra (“hill of the friars”), family-owned and operating for three generations on land that centuries ago had been where a monastery was located. It’s one of the largest and oldest producers in Custoza and in a way is the region’s ambassador.
After a tour of the production facilities with Silvia, one of the winery’s owners, we went to the tasting room, which also serves as an art gallery showcasing Italian artists. We were the only visitors.
We tasted, accompanied by several cheeses, bread, and charcuterie:
Scianco, a Spumante Brut, 😊😊
A Classic Custoza blend 😊😊
Ca’ del Magro, Custoza Superiore from 50-year-old vines 😊😊
Colombara, the “cru” of the family, 100% Gargenega 😊😊
Bonomo Sexaginta, Custoza Superiore 😊😊
We then toured Borghetto. The village is very pretty, with quaint houses, a Romanesque church, beautiful gardens, and a historic center. It’s also a popular place to enjoy a meal right on the river with local specialties such as tortellino (“love knots”) and sbrisolona, an almond crumb cake.
We had a great lunch right on the river at Gran Café San Marco.
Cantina Gorgo
The second winery we visited was Cantina Gorgo, family owned and founded in 1973. The winery, certified organic, specializes in indigenous grapes but also occasionally uses other ones such as Pinot Grigio. We toured the vineyards and production area and then enjoyed a wine tasting in the garden. The tasting was mainly private; we were joined by the owner of a Finnish resort looking to replenish his wine cellar.
Our tasting was accompanied by three different types of cheese, homemade sopressa (the local salami), and breadsticks.
We sampled:
A Classic Custoza blend 😊++
San Michelin Custoza, from 55-year-old vines, the winery’s ambassador wine 😊😊
Summa Custoza Superiore, from its highest vineyards, 2022 😊😊
Summa Custoza Superiore, 2021 😊😊
Sub 27, Custoza Riserva, one of the few local whites that can age 8-10 years 😊😊
Perlato Rosa – Chiaretto, a Spumante Brut from indigenous red grapes😊😊
We hope that this information on Custoza, one of the most enchanting wine regions you’ve never heard of, puts this area on your “let’s visit” list. Alla salute! (“To health!”).
What other lesser-known wine regions do you recommend and why? Please share! We’re at info@winewithourfamily.com.
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